Jeju – Itinerary Retrospection

A casual check online and also from reviews of private drivers in Jeju shows that most folks cover the island over 3- to 4-day visits. Mr. Lee – our Jeju driver for this trip – observed as much and quipped that most of his bookings are usually about 2-3 days indeed. Our trip to Jeju was 9 days: that afforded plenty of time for us to cover just about all the places we were interested in, though as it turned out, we dropped several places on account that we’d seen enough of that type, while one key highlight of this trip was cancelled.

As with every trip we’ve made in recent years, here is a summary of the major places we visited and my recommendation on how much time one should spend at each. We did our visitations on Days 1 to 7, with Days 8 and 9 essentially winding down and vegetating days.

Our 9-day itinerary in Jeju. Click for a larger version!

Day 1

Iho Tewoo Beach (~ 0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: our first stop after landing. We’d initially planned on visiting this spot towards the end of our trip and for sunset, but it was just as well for us to visit just before noon on the first day. The beach is well known for its pair of horse-shaped lighthouses that make for Instagrammable pictures, but there’s little else of interest for us here.

Oedolgae Rock (~ 1 hr) [blog post here]: a rock 20 metres in height that stands out in an inlet-like area of the coast. If you’re just checking out the rock for pictures, a quick stopover of 15 minutes will suffice as the rock and viewing pavilion are very near the car park. But if you venture a bit further down the path, there is another vantage point to see the rock.

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (~ 1 hr) [blog post here]: an easily accessed waterfall that’s within easy walking distance of Seogwipo Bridge. The waterfall is about 150 metres from the entrance gate along a wide maintained pathway. The spot is very popular, and the best angle for photos of it is a little small relative to the number of guests who visit the attraction.

Seogwipo Chilsimni Coastal Walk (~0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: nothing much here, unless you’re looking for a place to get grub at cafes and restaurants that face the coast.

Jeongbang Waterfall (~0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: the very unique waterfall in Asia where the water flows directly into the sea. The waterfall is near the car park, and accessed through a flight of steep steps down to the coast, and over very large rocks. You’d need to exercise real caution while walking over those rocks: slipping could mean serious fractures and injuries. The waterfall is beautiful, though be ready for some water spray!

Soesokkak Estuary (~0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: a pretty enough stream where boats can be rented for guests to paddle through it. It’s scenic enough, though we didn’t spend much time here.

Namwon Keuneong (~1 hr) [blog post here]: this, I believe, is a section of the coastal trail that runs around the circumference of the island. It’s quiet, with few visitors, and affords a good view of the rugged coastline.

 

Each picture collage in this post will follow this sequence; top row left to right, then bottom row left to right. For this picture: Iho Tewoo Beach, Oedolgae Rock, Jeongbang Waterfall, and Soesokkak Estuary.
Namwon Keuneong, Saeseom Island Saeyeongyo Bridge, Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls, Yongmeori Coast.

Day 2

Saeseom Island Saeyeongyo Bridge (~1 hr) [blog post here]: an easy-to-reach spot that’s very near Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, and offers a view of Seogwipo town from the bridge. The bridge gets lit up at night, though we didn’t check out the night lighting. The bridge connects Seogwipo to the small uninhabited island of Saeseom, where you can also spend a bit of time walking around.

Jusangjeolli Cliffs (~0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: one side of the rugged rock formations here looks like a crocodile’s wide-open jaw and is about to chomp down. This attraction is a popular tourist spot, so it gets pretty crowded. The area offers a few viewing platforms for you to check the cliffs out, but I suspect most visitors won’t spend much time here.

Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls (~1 to 1.5 hrs) [blog post here]: of the waterfalls we visited, the second falls at Cheonjeyeon was the most visually interesting, given its setting deeper inside a park and the lush greenery that surrounds it. The first two falls are pretty easy to walk to, but the third is much further in. So, the amount of time you’d allocate here comes down to whether you want to see the third fall. If you do, then you’d probably need 1.5 hrs in all.

Yongmeori Coast (~1 to 2 hrs) [blog post here]: considered one of the must-dos when on Jeju, though also weather-dependent. The path takes you around the cliffs that show patterns formed from erosion over thousands of years from weather and the crashing waves. The area can get quite crowded, and in a few places, almost choke-point-like depending on the frequency of visitors who stop by to pose for gram shots!

Songaksan (~1 to 2 hrs) [blog post here]: Songaksan is a small volcanic cone located near the southwestern tip of Jeju Island, and features a walking trail that takes visitors around a section of the crater. There’s a fair bit of walking, and little shelter, so prepare as needed. The place is uncrowded as this attraction doesn’t seem to be on most bus tour routes.

Camellia Hill Botanical Garden (~2 hrs) [blog post here]: a large garden with lovely and well-maintained flora beds and walking paths. The spot sees a lot of visitors, and while the garden isn’t small, the normal-width footpaths mean that there is potential congestion during peak visitation hours. This isn’t a place you can cover in an hour and do it justice, so try to allocate at least 2 hours here.

Day 3

Choinamdan Tangerine Park (~2 hrs) [blog post here]: there are quite a few tangerine and fruit farms on the island, but Choinamdan offers not just fruit-picking, but also activity areas – including a small zoo with cute animals, and child-oriented tram rides and swings. These add-ons won’t really be of interest to adults though, so find a farm that is in the area you’re at, and also offers the quality of pickings you want.

World Automobile & Piano Museum (~2 hrs) [blog post here]: this is a must-visit if you’re a fan of vintage vehicles, but I found the vintage piano section not as interesting. The deer that roam the outdoor vehicle section are fun to interact with if you’ve picked up the included basket of veggies at the entrance. Still, I think this would be filler for an itinerary if you’re in the general vicinity, and probably isn’t a mandatory inclusion unless you’re a fan of vintage cars.

Seogwipo Maeil Olie Market (~1 hr) [blog post here]: a mid-sized but easy-to-navigate market that offers a variety of food items, snacks, souvenirs, fresh produce, and seafood. The market has plenty of casual seating as well if you’re snacking.

 

Songaksan, Camellia Hill Botanical Garden, Choinamdan Tangerine Park, and World Automobile & Piano Museum.
Seogwipo Maeil Olie Market, Osulloc Tea Museum, Sanyang Keunkot, and Spirited Garden.

Day 4

Osulloc Tea Museum (~0.5 to 2 hrs) [blog post here]: this is one of those places where the amount of time you want to allocate depends entirely on whether you want to shop for teas and/or if you need Innisfree cosmetic products. If the answer is no to either or both of the latter, then 0.5 hours to take pictures of the tea fields on both sides of the road will suffice.

Sanyang Keunkot (~2 hrs) [blog post here]: this is a lovely fairy-themed forest park that will provide many fun photo opportunities. Walking routes are very well paved and wide, and though we encountered larger groups of visitors in the park, there was plenty of space for everyone. Don’t miss the rabbit enclosure inside the park if you have kids. We spent just over an hour here and it wasn’t nearly enough to cover the place.

Spirited Garden (~1 to 2 hrs) [blog post here]: a lovely garden with beautifully maintained and cultivated bonsai. If you chance upon the garden’s director and creator on your day of visit, do stop by to chat – he’s super chill and very friendly.

Suwolbong (~2 hrs) [blog post here]: located on the western end of the island, and offers a well-paved and maintained coastal walk at beach level. The coastal route here is uncrowded, the path is wide, and there is plenty of space for everyone. If you’re driving, don’t miss the pavilion on the hill where the observatory is for an expansive view of the coast from up top and a sweeping view of Jeju Island.

Saebyeol Oreum (~1 hr) [blog post here]: this oreum, like Suwolbong, is considered one of the best places to catch the sunset. We didn’t do that this trip and contended ourselves with a late afternoon visit. Take the right route while facing the oreum – it’s longer but on a somewhat less steep incline. Climb slowly too and enjoy the view as you go up!

Day 05

Garden @ Starbucks Reserve (~0.5 to 1 hr) [blog post here]: this was a stopover not in our planned itinerary and added in by Mr. Lee. The garden is small but beautifully maintained, with flower beds, lotus ponds, and also a small man-made waterfall. There is no admission charge to the garden, and if you have the time, you can also lounge in the Starbucks café overlooking the garden.

Manjanggul Lava Tube (~1 hr) [blog post here]: this lava tube system is finally open again after more than 2 years of closure for repairs. The section of the cave that is open to the public is about 1 km long to the terminal point, so a total of 2 km of walking. You probably won’t need more than an hour to finish the route, and will likely take less time than that. Important: bring along a jacket, as the tunnel is noticeably much colder inside than outside.

Woljeongri Beach (~0.5 to 1 hr) [blog post here]: the weather was pretty gloomy at the time we went, but the beach is clearly popular among visitors. There are a number of cafés and restaurant joints facing the beach, so it looks like a nice place to hang around and relax.

Jeju Haenyeo Museum (~1 hr) [blog post here]: the museum documents and celebrates the culture and lives of the famed Haenyeo women divers. The museum is small, and you can easily cover all the exhibits, even leisurely, in an hour. Be sure to watch the recorded video interviews of the veteran divers. I highly recommend that you visit the museum first before watching the divers at Umutgae Beach.

Snoopy Garden (~2 to 3 hrs) [blog post here]: a park that offers both a medium-sized indoor exhibition area and a huge garden. Even if you’re not a fan of the Peanuts comic strip, you’d still enjoy the interestingly planned routes, themed garden sections, and the many characters and fun props that are everywhere in the garden. We spent 1.5 hours here, and found ourselves speed-running through large sections of the outdoor area. You’d want to spend at the very least 2 hours, and ideally more than that, here.

Suwolbong, Saebyeol Oreum, Garden @ Starbucks Reserve, and Manjanggul Lava Tube.
Woljeongri Beach, Jeju Haenyeo Museum, Snoopy Garden, and Seongsan Ilchulbong.

Day 6

Seongsan Ilchulbong (~1 to 1.5 hrs) [blog post here]: no visit to Jeju is considered complete for first-time visitors without at least climbing up Seongsan Ilchulbong. The climb is through well-paved and maintained paths and steps, and is fine for all fitness levels who can manage stairs. The spot is super popular with tourists – you can tell from the huge car park with a large number of tour-bus-sized parking lots. We visited at the opening hour of 7 AM and there was barely anyone around. When we returned in the early afternoon to catch the Haenyeo diver performance, the place was crowded!

Seopjikoji (~1 to 2 hrs) [blog post here]: located on the eastern side of the island, and also offering rugged cliffs that you can view from the trail. There is a lighthouse with a small viewing platform that you can climb up to, a bakery/café for grub, and also a swing that you can take pictures with.

Seongeup Folk Village (0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: a small traditional village that we stopped by while waiting for the Haenyeo diver performance to begin. We’d already visited several similar villages during our 2024 trip to South Korea, so this place wasn’t particularly interesting for us.

Hado Coastal Road (0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: supposedly one of the best places to see hydrangeas, but we’d already visited numerous gardens at this point, many with lovingly tended hydrangea shrubs and beds, so we just did a speed-run of this place.

Haenyeo Divers (0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: a must-do for visits to the island, and in part also because of how unique the Haenyeo culture is. You’d need to arrive super early if you want a view that’s up close to the divers and on the beach itself. If not, you’d have to make do with viewing from the Seongsan cliffside and looking down from a distance. You won’t be able to see much of what the divers are doing once they dive and go underwater, of course, but the dive performance itself isn’t long – the women will surface after 10 to 15 minutes to show their catch to the audience.

Nexon Computer Museum (1 hr) [blog post here]: the museum isn’t large, but if you’re a person who experienced video games from the 1980s onwards, there will be plenty for you to see here and try out. In short, nostalgia galore here! There is also a very well-done display room on the third floor that lets visitors select game trailers to watch in an immersive fashion.

Seopjikoji, Seongeup Folk Village, Hado Coastal Road, and Haenyeo Divers.
Hado Coastal Road, Nexon Computer Museum, Dongmun Traditional Market, and Hwangsang Forest.

Day 7

Hwangsang Forest (0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: unlike the gardens and other forest parks we’d already visited by this point, Hwangsang Forest is different in that the path you’re walking on is a dirt trail exposed to the elements, and set within a dense forest. Not to worry: the route isn’t long – you’d cover it in 30 minutes – but the 30-minute experience is as close as urban city types like us will get to traipsing through a forest with lush greenery, overhead trees, and all the accompanying smells and sounds of that experience – all in a fairly easy-to-reach location.

Hallim Park (~2 hrs) [blog post here]: a huge garden with multiple themed sections, including a cave system that comprises three small caves. Try to find all the peacocks in the park too: we counted at least 7! The bonsai section has several specimens that are centuries old. We had just an hour to spend here, but you’ll want to allocate at least 2 hours to explore all the sections.

Hyeopjae Beach (~0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: a wide beach with clean sand, and considered one of the best beaches on the island. There are wind turbines in the sea in the distance that you can see and marvel at as an engineering feat.

Aewol Cafe Street (~0.5 hrs) [blog post here]: a short stretch with beach-facing cafés. The section of the beach features black granite-like rocks that are probably too dangerous to explore freely, but the sea-facing view is at least pretty nice.

Hallim Park (both pictures at top row), Hyeopjae Beach, and Chilseong-ro Shopping Street.

Day 8 to 9

Jungang Underground Shopping Street (~1 hr) [blog post here]: an underground shopping street located very near Dongmun Traditional Market and offering numerous small shops with a focus on apparel, souvenirs and cosmetics.

Chilseong-ro Shopping Street (~1 to 2 hrs) [blog post here]: also located beside Jungang Underground Shopping Street but above ground. Lots of shops with a focus on apparel and footwear.

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And lastly, like always, we take the list of places we visited in the trip and categorise them into ‘Must See’, ‘Should See’, and ‘Add only as Filler’:

Category Places
Must see/visit Jeongbang Waterfall, Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls, Yongmeori Coast, Camellia Hill Botanical Garden, Seogwipo Maeil Olie Market, Spirited Garden, Saebyeol Oreum, Manjanggul Lava Tube, Jeju Haenyeo Museum, Snoopy Garden, Seongsan Ilchulbong, Seopjikoji.
Should see Oedolgae Rock, Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, Namwon Keuneong, Saeseom Island Saeyeongyo Bridge, Jusangjeolli Cliffs, Songaksan, Choinamdan Tangerine Park, World Automobile & Piano Museum,  Osulloc Tea Museum,  Sanyang Keunkot, Suwolbong, Garden @ Starbucks Reserve, Haenyeo Divers, (1 hr), Nexon Computer Museum, Hwangsang Forest, Hallim Park, Hyeopjae Beach.
Add only as Filler Iho Tewoo Beach, Soesokkak Estuary, Seogwipo Chilsimni Coastal Walk, Woljeongri Beach, Seongeup Folk Village, Hado Coastal Road, Aewol Cafe Street, Jungang Underground Shopping Street, Chilseong-ro Shopping Street.

That’s it for our itinerary and visitation notes. Next post: posting the wife’s (many) pictures of flora in Jeju!

 

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