Kobe, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka: Reflections on the trip – Part 3

Part 3 of our notes on our 10.5 day trip!

The Currency

One thing I absolutely do not like is the fact that you get loose change from every dining and retail establishment that are maddeningly difficult to reuse in the transportation system. It’s just crazy to get a pocket full of jingling 1 and 5円 coins, and then struggle to find ways to use them later. They’re still legal tender of course, but we would have really preferred those transportation ticket terminals accepting small change.

On the other hand, understanding the local currency was a lot easier for me than trying to understand American currency. Denominations are printed in large numberings on Japan dollar notes and are of relatively good quality for paper-based currency. I found American dollars hard to read on the other hand, in very poor physical and nearly torn condition a lot of times, and the less said about trying to understand their dimes and quarters, the better! Singapore currency beats all hands down though; it’s plastic money and color-coded LOL.

The Transportation Network

It’s funny to think of it. In Kobe and Osaka, we took the subway/train. In Kyoto, we took the bus! In all cases, we really benefited from the fact that train subway maps and station maps were readily available and pretty easy to read and understand. Exit/entrance points are clearly marked out, and labeled liberally in sign posting everywhere. Trains and buses arrived exactly on the dot – just goes to show Japanese efficiency and ability to stick to timings… so completely unlike in Singapore – and there were sufficient escalators and elevators in stations to expedite traveling with heavy luggage.

All the subway stations we transited to and from had luggage lockers too, and they cost up to 600円 for the largest ones. Funnily, the largest lockers were the ones that got occupied quickly, and if you’re traveling with larger than 26 inch-sized lockers, you might have to hunt around for a bit to find a free locker that’s large enough for your bag. The last hotel we stayed in – The Lutheran Hotel – were happy to hold onto our luggage for an entire day though till night time after we’d checked out in the early morning on our last day.

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We didn't try these though.

We didn’t find the trains that heavily occupied. Though to be fair, we’ve yet to experience the famous sardine packing in Tokyo, and by luck, we largely traveled outside morning peak hours in Kyoto and Osaka. The Japanese subway and train network seem to employ a huge number of personnel too. Everywhere we went, we saw uniformed station wardens, people traffic controllers, cleaners, unarmed security personnel and the like. Way, way more than maybe the half-dozen personnel you’d fine in a typical MRT station.

On the other hand, public transportation as a general rule is dreadfully expensive in Japan. The flat bus fare in Kyoto really bit us. A flat 220円 for a short trip, and for longer trips, you’d need to top up even that flat fare. There was a 500円 convenience card you can buy, which helped matters somewhat – but you couldn’t use that card in the subway or trains. My ballpark estimate is that on any given day of extensive sight seeing, you’d be spending at least SGD15 upwards per person on travel alone on the subway and bus networks. I guess one’s paying for the high train staff costing (large number of employees everywhere!) and the costs of building the extensive subway and railway track coverage. We’ve really been spoiled by the relatively inexpensive bus and MRT rides in Singapore.

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Japanese trains. Fast, clean, efficient, expensive.

The Culture

The Japanese are world-famous for their fastidiousness in personal hygiene. But the cities we visited weren’t exactly litter-free – not that I was expecting it to be actually. But what’s interesting was the very large number of cigarette stubs everywhere. Ling personally found it discomforting whenever we entered a cafe full of smokers and try to find a table in a non-smoking area, and we ended up walking out of more than a few cafes when she found the tobacco stench unbearable. I guess I can’t complain too much, considering that in Singapore, on any given early morning, you’d find cigarette stubs and used tissue paper and empty can drinks and empty noodle cups and more used tissue paper and empty 7-11 drink cups and… etc.

I read somewhere in travel books too that sneezing without covering their nasals is a terrific no-no-no in Japan. But here’s the dammnest thing: I saw a lot of persons doing just that, and spewing all their goodness on whichever their nasals were pointing at. And they didn’t look like they were foreigners.

And that thing about slurping your ramen? Hearing someone slurp their noodles beside me is enough for me to want to stab my ears! I didn’t personally experience hearing loud slurps in my stay in Kumamoto last year on account that I was fine-dining in a very quiet restaurant every night, but this time round in Kyoto and Osaka, did. I guess it’s a really totally jarring experience to see this very well-dressed and pretty looking Japanese lady loudly slurping her ramen right beside me. It sort of completely killed that image of the refined Japanese woman for me, though of course the Japanese don’t see it the same way.

Ling took special delight in the ubiquitous vending machines everywhere, and she liberally used that excuse of her allergy to seafood and her need for ‘tea detoxification’ to hunt for choice teas from those machines.:)

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Ling is in love!

Finally

It was a good trip, especially for Ling I think who really enjoyed herself taking in the sights, the cuisine, and people-watching. We planned for the trip within a budget of about SGD6K, and spent in all about SGD5K I think, though I’ll only have the exact figure once I’ve completed my usual postmortem spreadsheet accounting. Photographic opportunities were problematic though on account of cold and crummy weather, but we had to manage. Funnily, the E-PL1 has really come through in this vacation, and I found myself relying on the little compact much more than the D300. This vacation has seriously made me reconsider whether those huge DSLRs are where I want to go long-term, or go with the micro-4/3 standard.

I asked Ling where next we should go to. I’m all for visiting the United States again – which as I’ve remarked here before, far prefer it as a visitation place than Japan, and still do even after this trip – but if we’re coming back to Japan again any time soon, I imagine we’ll be hitting the Tokyo region next.

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Taking pictures in Arashiyama.That heron is a lot further away than this picture suggests.
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Ling catching up on Matt's comments to our blog at Kansai International Airport just before our return to Singapore.

As for our ‘loot’, we didn’t really buy a lot of stuff, and the most costly items were a pair of Shigeharu chef knives – one for mom, and another for ourselves. The rest of it were small items; some local snacks, those Green Tea Kit-Kats that we nearly gave up looking for, fridge magnets from several places, a toy for Hannah (that round blue pokka-dot thing in the picture – it’s a whale-shark doll from Kaiyukan), some pottery pieces from Douguyasuji, and lens filters from Yodobashi Umeda.

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Our very small stash of loot from Japan.

Our most treasured gift for us though was that Hannah still remembers us! And she looks taller, looks different, and is capable of more complex utterances than ever.:)

Hannah looking solemn. She just got a nasty mosquito bite though, so looks just a mite unglam here.

4 thoughts on “Kobe, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka: Reflections on the trip – Part 3

  1. I’ve been following the trip with much interest (and much envy!) all this time. I’m so pleased you both enjoyed your much needed vacation. I just have to get to Japan someday soon — it’s long overdue.

    It looks like you guys were disciplined in packing light, especially in that you seem to have brought back with you an impressive haul of loot from Japan. Does Hannah like the plush-toy you bought for her at the aquarium?

    Sandie and I intend to get away for 4 or 5 days for our anniversary later this month, but it will have to be very cheap and within the US because she still doesn’t have a passport!

  2. Well, we were allowed 20+20 kg on our flight. On departure, it was 15 + 12 kg, on our returning, it was 18 + 14 kg I remember; we didn’t really buy that many things, and the weight difference is largely because of the two heavy whetstones we bought from Shigeharu.

    Ling was remarking during the trip that she doesn’t like traveling to wintering countries as there’s a lot more clothes to pack for her. But it’s a woman thing. For guys like us, I think we’d be packing lighter since you don’t perspire in winter. I could have easily gone with just a winter jacket, a pull-over, two polo-shirts, long-johns and jeans – for all of 10 days!

    Hannah takes a while to grow to new plush toys, like what happened to the New England Aquarium penguin toy I got her from Boston. We’ll know soon enough.:)

    There’re plenty of sights where you are – I’d really want to go back to the US again soon myself.:)

  3. the whale shark toy is so cute! glad you guys (especially Ling) enjoyed the trip. it would have been even nicer if you left immediately when she started holidays because it would have still been autumn =) but good that you caught some remnants of autumn =) hm… all the hotels we have stayed in allowed us to leave our baggage there even after we have checked out and collect it in the evening so we hardly have to use the lockers. we use lockers only if we drop off somewhere along the way to our final destination for some sightseeing.

    in terms of packing, you’re exactly like chris!! and he didn’t bring ANY toiletries. he has whatever he needed in the hotels. but i had to pack thermals, cashmere, wool, trenchcoat, jacket, scarfs, beret, stockings, gloves, different hair-ties and clips, toiletries, cosmetics, soft-toy, iron etc etc etc etc… haha… my luggage bag was full, his was half-full with another small luggage bag packed in hahaha… i definitely CANNOT backpack…

    as for EPL-1… funnily, i felt it was inadequate during my vietnam trip cos i feel the focusing is just not fast enough. for landscapes and videos, it’s ok but for shooting people and culture, it’s frustrating when they come out blur cos people move… and low light shots come out really noisy (when you need to increase the ISO) it irritates me a lot so my DSLR will still be my first choice although it’s heavy. i guess if i don’t insist on bringing extra lens and am content with my 18-200mm, it’s not too much of a burden. i wanted chris to use the EPL-1 while i use my 7D but he said, “no need! my i-Phone camera is very good! =)” -.-||| and yes, he is one of those people who will use his phone camera to shoot everything, even night shots hahaha

    you’re right about people asking u to take pictures… i’m sure the pictures turned out nice =) but i have difficulty asking people to help us take pictures because not everyone who carries a DSLR actually knows how to use it haha usually when i want to ask people to help us take photos, i will offer to help them take first… then i realise their DSLR is on auto mode -.- we rely on my tripod for most of our couple shots. for places where it’s dangerous to open a tripod or not allowed, we have no choice… haha

    chris wants to bring me to Grand Canyon soon but i dread the long flight (if a baby cries throughout, i might really get up and slap him/her) haha

  4. We did bring toiletries actually, though apart from facials and the skin lotions, the rest were more intended as supplements to what we knew the three hotels would be providing.

    Ya; agree about the E-PL1 focusing speed. It’s not really appropriate for anything to do with half body or closer portraits, but I found it Ok for everything else. I used the E-PL1 almost exclusively for anything I wanted to take a quick picture of, and it’s really a much more discrete camera than a hefty DSLR with a travel zoom (like my 18-250mm and your 18-200mm).

    The noise at higher ISOs can be a problem if you leave it at iAuto, but it’s not nearly as bad on P mode with correctly adjusted parameters. All my night shots apart from the Osaka nightline were all taken using the E-PL1.:)

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